Friday, October 31, 2008

Visiting Jiufeng

My father and I visited Jiufeng (九份) yesterday, on the advice of a friend from Taichung. Jiufeng is actually close to Taipei, though I had never visited previously. The town is up in the mountains, near the northern coast of Taiwan, and is known for its spectacular views. Here is a map of the place:



Here is a picture of me in the city, at a spot that apparently is famous for being in the filming location of some movie:


Jiufeng also has some stores with souvenirs and snack shops, as most tourist locations. One of them made this very good mochi-like dessert with ice cream in the middle. After touring the shops, we climbed up Keelung Mountain (基隆山), which has 4 pagoda rest stops. The entrance:


A view of the climb upwards:


We got up to the summit in about 25 minutes - it was a relatively short climb, though I can't say it was easy. Unfortunately, the view was rather cloudy today:


A shot of the northern coast - Keelung Port and Jinshan (金山) are in the distance:

Afterwards, we drove back along a scenic route and visited the hot springs in Jinshan.

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Economy Bailout Solutions

And so economic turmoil continues around the world. My own investments are no exception - my US stocks have averaged a 33% loss this month, though I am better off than some of my friends who have lost almost everything. Iceland is broke (though that's just bad news for incumbents; for everyone else, that means there's plenty of opportunity there), and Argentina is on its way.

Recently I have heard some more discussions of how the government should help the economy turn the corner. Most of these are one kind of bailout solution or another to improve liquidity and ease the credit crunch. Ideas include:

1) Bailing out the financial institutions' bad investments by buying up bad assets.

This obviously is bad for taxpayer, as there is no reason any asset which will not sell above market price while in the bank's hands will now sell in the government's hands. Maybe prices will go back up, but there is no guarantee, and they certainly will not go up to the prices at the top of the bubble, so a loss is expected regardless. The government tries to paint this as an investment, not an expense; that is true, but a bad investment (which is what this is for certain) is almost as bad as an outright expense. Finally, there is no guarantee that this will improve liquidity, as the banks see no reason to lend out any more money to help out homeowners in this environment even if it has the money.

2) Loaning financial institutions the money to cover temporary cash shortages.

Once again, there is no guarantee here to improve liquidity. Furthermore, given the trouble some of these institutions are in, there of course is some risk of default.

3) Taking an ownership position in financial insititutions, forcing them to loan out money.

This of course might work, but it isn't clear how good a job a government can do to run a bank. Also, the reason financial institutions are tight on credit is valid, and it is likely that many of the loans they would make, while sensible in a normal environment, may be bad in the current environment. Thus, the risk of default is higher, and thus to force financial institutions to do so regardless will inevitably cause such institutions to lose money and shrink in size.

4) Helping homeowners directly by making loans available to them at low interest rates.

Of course this is the most direct and easiest way to help the homeowner, but the policy will have unintended consequences. Homeowners, seeing a source of liquidity available, may rush over to refinance and take advantage of the lower interest rates. This eases the credit crunch and ameliorates economic woes by temporarily stimulating the economy, but results in the start of another bubble, as you'll once again have people who take loans out and live beyond their means, etc. Soon the cycle will start again only it will be even worse the next time.

So in fact, I don't believe there is a way the government can help The best thing is to do nothing and let the markets ride it out. The recession in fact is much needed, and the restructuring that happens then will be the best thing in the long run. Bad banks will fail and better ones will grow and take its place. Credit will tighten, but the best investments will still be worthwhile projects to finance. The invisible hand of the market really works, and government should stop meddling with it, wrecking havoc, and then blaming the free market economy for problems it has caused, giving it more justification to nationalize and further regulate the economy. Keynesian policies advocating government intervention may have their place and time, but right now clearly is not one of them. Mainstream economics have mostly followed Keynesian thought in the past few decades, and that has led us to the crisis we have today.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Leaving China

As I may have mentioned before, one issue I have here is that my multiple entry visa only allows me to stay in China for a maximum of 30 days. This essentially means every time I enter the country, I need to already plan for my next exit. Sure, I could apply for a longer visa, perhaps 60 days or 90 days, but being forced to go every 30 days does have a benefit (besides avoiding the extra costs and hassles of reapplying for a visa), namely, it forces me to go out and see other places in Asia (HK/Macau, Taiwan, Southeast Asia, Korea, India, and Mongolia are all on my list of potential places to visit).

Unfortunately, leaving the country every 30 days does put pressure on my itinerary, especially on the last 10 days of the stay. It means I am not as free to drift from place to place as I would naturally be otherwise, having to worry about the logistics of traveling to better connected cities and scouring cheaper fares across a range of departure dates. Furthermore, perhaps because of my own personality and propensity to squeeze out every last bit of my time, it seems every time I actually leave, it is the very last day, and I am racing against the clock to make it out before midnight (i.e. my flight out to Shenzhen to go to HK on 9/14, my mad rush out of Hangzhou down to Jinmen thru Xiamen on 10/18).


Perhaps next year, I'll consider applying for a 60 day multiple entry visa instead - after all, I can still leave every 30 days if I want to visit more countries, though there is no longer an external impetus driving me to do so. But there shouldn't be anyways - after all, this trip is also for me to learn more self-discipline and self-motivation.

Dark Nursery Rhymes

Found an interesting article. The first paragraph reads:

「太陽當空照,骷髏對我笑。小鳥說,早早早,你為什麼背上炸藥包?我去炸學校,老師不知道。一拉線,趕快跑,轟隆一聲,學校炸飛了。」不知道從什麼時候開始,像這樣的「灰色童謠」在新疆烏魯木齊中小學生之間已經成為一種流行。

The beginning is a nursery rhyme, and it roughly translates to:

The sun shines in the great sky,
Skeletons smile and say hi,
Small bird chirps,
"Morn! Morn! Morn!"

Why do you carry bags of dynamite?
I'm going to blow up the school, alright,
Teachers all have no clue about my might.

Once I pull the cord,
Running fast - Oh Lord!
After the deafening roar,
My old school is now no more.


The article states that it's not sure when it all got started, but these dark nursery rhymes have become quite fashionable in Ürümqi, Xinjiang amongst elementary school kids...

Original Article (中文):
http://tw.news.yahoo.com/article/url/d/a/081025/4/1892h.html

Random Observation: Chinese poems seem to be much more concise than English ones. Or maybe that was just me adding in extra words to match the meter and trying to make it rhyme.

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Dysentery and a Broken Axle

After another half day in Jinmen, I'm back in Taipei, and somehow I've come down with stomach problems here despite somehow avoiding it for the most part while in China. Don't think I actually have dysentery - the title is merely an allusion to common problems that may occur on a well-known journey.

Anyhow, I'll be resting in Taipei for a bit before heading down South to Chiayi to see relatives a few days. Ah, Taiwan... so comfortable and convenient. No one haggling you for money, trying to swindle or cheat you, so many places are open 24 hours, so many tasty snacks to try (once I feel better).

I dropped by the hospital today to see the doctor as a precautionary measure. Even without health insurance and Taiwanese ID, Taiwan's medical care was so much cheaper and more efficient than the US. Some key differences:

1) Instead of making an appointment with your doctor and arriving there, waiting for half an hour or an hour before he is actually available, in Taiwan you simply get a number ahead of time, either by showing up in person or calling ahead. The number is your position in line, and you can estimate about when you might be called. Even if you arrive after your number is called, you can get yourself slotted next after the next couple of patients. In our case, there were 16 patients slotted for the morning, and I was #13. We arrived right on time - there was no wait at all.

2) Doctors in Taiwan are each in their own office and patients go to visit their doctor in the same office, one after another, whereas of course in the US, patients with appointments around the same time are each placed in isolated rooms, often waiting for at least 10-20 minutes before the doctor is able to make his way over. As a result, there is much more transparency in Taiwan in terms of knowing where you are, where the doctor is, and when is it you should expect to see him. In the US, sometimes you wonder if the doctor has forgotten about you and left you to rot in your sterile cell.

3) Doctors in Taiwan are very efficient with their time. Often, the whole appointment takes no more than 5-10 minutes. The doc gets straight to the point and asks whats wrong, you tell him your issues, he provides a diagnosis, you give your feedback, and he gives you a prescription and adds notes to your electronic medical record once everyone is on the same page.

4) In Taiwan, you can see whichever specialists you want without a referral. Ironically enough, this means everyone goes straight to the specialist, and general family doctors, which was what I saw today, have plenty of time and are much easier to get a hold of.

5) Medical records, as mentioned, are stored electronically. Doctors access them on their computers, and adds notes to them electronically as well. Insurance, which is universal in Taiwan, is tracked via smart card and reduces administrative costs. In fact, Taiwan's health care administration cost is only 2% of total costs (lowest in the world), whereas in the US, administrative costs are about 29% of total costs.

6) Even without insurance, health care costs a fraction of what it does in the US. For my doctor's visit, I paid a total of 350 NT ($10 USD). My prescription, which consists of 5 different drugs, cost about 720 NT ($21 USD). With insurance, of course it's even less.

Taiwan is in the middle of promoting itself as a destination for medical tourism. With high quality medical care, low costs, modern facilities, and good doctors with English language skills, it has the potential to cater to many more international patients. Who knows whether it will be as successful in attracting outside interest as Thailand, Singapore, India, or Korea, but one thing is for sure - it's already better than the US.

What China Thinks

Recently, I had been reading a book called What China Thinks, by Mark Leonard, who traveled around China for a few years talking to Chinese intellectuals and is now the director of European Council on Foreign Relations, a pan-European think-tank. As Leonard mentions in the introduction, while China's significance has increased on the global stage, we tend to focus mostly on its explosive economic growth, and little on the ideas and philosophies of mainland intellectuals. Names of intellectuals like Wang Hui, Zhang Weiying, Yan Xuetong, and Cui Zhiyuan are virtually unknown in the West. Leonard argues that this ignorance to the current developing trends in Chinese thought are costly and causes misunderstandings in East-West international relations.

I found the book to be quite thought-provoking. Some notes:

1) One of the reasons for China's dramatic economic growth has been its ability to successfully transition from its planned economy to a market economy, via the "dual-track" methodology. Leonard mentions in the book one of the intellectual likes to explain via the following story:

In one particular village, the elders tell all the villagers that zebras are evil and horses are good, hardworking animals. However, over time, it was discovered that zebras really are more efficient than horses. Having imprinted the fact that zebras are evil in the minds of the villagers, the elders decided that instead of suddenly proclaiming the benefits of zebras, they would secretly paint some of the horses with black stripes. When the villagers discovered these black-striped horses and mistakened them for zebras, the elders would reassure them they were not evil zebras, but are horses, just painted with black stripes. Pretty soon, the villagers would get used to seeing black-striped horses in the village, and soon later it was not too difficult to mix in actual zebras with the black-striped horses. In time, the more efficient zebras would replace all the black-striped horses without much fuss.

Similarly, China has steathily, incrementally moved from its communist, command economy with fixed prices to one where the market determines the price. The Communist Party still exists and retains its ideology, but in practice China has become more and more capitalistic. This contrasts with the Soviet Union when they pursued "shock therapy" reform policies, with spectacular failure. The lesson learned is that economic reform should come before political reform, and economic reform should be done incrementally rather than all at once. This contrasts with the ways of the West, where political reform often is sought first, and wholesale changes to the economy are done in batch.

To me, this seems to make a great deal of sense - after all, as consultants, when we try to implement something new in our client engagements, often times we set up a pilot program first to have an opportunity to make minor tweaks before rolling it out everywhere. You usually don't go from concept to practice in one breath whether you are rolling out a new campaign, writing new software, or engineering new projects; it seems to me rather irresponsible and unscientific for political leaders to do so with regards to political and economic reform.


2) One of the questions the book raises is whether the democracy is really the one and only path for a modern government to take, and it speculates on the possibility that China may find an viable and sustainable alternative to Western liberal democracies. As one Chinese intellectual argues, the most pressing issue for citizens is not who should run the government, but how the government is run. In the West, how the leaders of government are chosen give them their legitimacy, but most times it seems the constituents are less than satisfied with the decisions of the politicians they they elect to office. The argument goes further and contends that political decisions should flow from pragmatic, scientific evaluation of social problems rather than higher- level ideologies and principles. In essence, picking the leaders of a government should be more like the hiring process a board of directors goes through, evaluating the strengths and weaknesses of candidates for executive positions. Competency is more important than ideology.

In fact, another Chinese intellectual argues that Western developed nations are prosperous and stable not because of Democracy, but because of Rule of Law, and constantly chides Westerners for misunderstanding their own political systems. In fact, he argues that Democracy and Rule of Law are in constant conflict with each other. Democracy gives power to the people, but Rule of Law puts limits on that power. Democracy makes laws, while the Rule of Law is about enforcing them. Democracy involves electing officials like congressmen, legislators, presidents, governors, and mayors, while Rule of Law involves appointing officials such as civil servants, judges, and auditors. Democracy is draws its legitimacy from popular appeal, where as Rule of Law derives it from entrance exams and performance reviews. It is, in fact, competency and meritocracy that keeps a government going, not populism and majority rule. In essence, the key ingredient in a successful government may not involve Democracy at all.

In these past few decades, the Chinese government has, objectively speaking, done a very admirable job in running the country, despite not using a democratic system and offering freedoms similar to those found in Western countries. It is in some sense, more like a benevolent dictatorship than anything else. And it needs to continue to do so, in order to maintain its grip on the country. This begs the question, is it perhaps better if a government's legitimacy comes not from how it is put into office, but from how good of a job it does while it is in office? Is the best government a government that fears for itself, fears for its existence if it does not serve the interest of its people? If a convict escapes, and hides amongst the populace by pretending to be "good" and must do so for the rest of his existence to prevent capture, then is he not as decent as his neighbor, even if he is "evil" at heart? And in traditional Chinese political thought, as long as a government has the "Mandate of Heaven" and serves the interests of its people, isn't it legitimate, regardless of who it is? Perhaps there is some form of meritocratic government that must be better than democracy. After all, we know in democracy that the masses are not always right, that special interests tend to wield disproportionate powers, and campaigns are turning more and more into a scientific process on how some member of the political elite behave to best pander to various demographics. There ought to be a better way.

In the US, we seemed to be sometimes brainwashed to believe in democracy, without giving it enough critical thought. It's not to say schools are to blame - every country inherently imparts some of its national ideologies and philosophies into the classroom. However, I look back on the campaign speeches given in the US, and more and more, this idea of democracy seems to be a rallying point to build consensus across all sorts of peoples, a way to induce American nationalism. America is proclaimed to be "great" because of Democracy; it is the "reason" why we were attacked during 9/11. Undemocratic nations are inherently "evil" and we must crusade onwards until they see the light. And so while I am not advocating for a change to any sort of non-democratic government, I think, especially in this critical juncture in history, it is important for Americans to critically reexamine the ideas for what constitutes a "good" government.

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

Distributing Business Cards

After wandering around Gulangyu, I just missed the boat to Jinmen, and so I had about an hour to kill in Xiamen.

While I was walking, I noticed a group of people distributing business cards.








Since I was in no hurry anymore, I slowed down, and took one from one of them. It was a business card for a travel agency. Suddenly, seeing that I had stopped in my tracks to examine the card, a whole swarm of card distributors surrounded me, each handing me another card. I took them all, ending up with about 10 cards or so.

Next, the old lady selling maps came by, holding a copy in her hand.



"Would you like a map?"
"No thanks, I know where I'm going."
"It's just 6 RMB."
"You know, in other cities, I can get them for 3 RMB."
"Okay fine, how about 3 RMB?" She smiled sweetly, showing her decaying teeth.

I politely refused again, and tried to change the subject. "Where are you from?"
"From Anhui Province."
"Are you all from Anhui?" I pointed to the rest of the travel agency card distributors.
"Yes. Anhui Province is quite poor. We are here to try to make a bit more money, but the work is not easy."
"But how does it work? With the maps it is easy - it's based on how many you sell. But for the cards, how do they know how many cards you distribute?"
"It has nothing to do with how many cards you distribute." She took a card from my hand and pointed, "See here, there's a phone number on each one. They're all different, for every card, even though they go to the same company. Based on which number is called, they will know the person that distributed the card to the customer."

I was intrigued, as I had never tried distributing cards before, and was curious to see how hard it would be. After all, I had time to kill. So with the ~10 cards I had gathered, I decided to start passing them out myself, and see who would take, as well as how long it would take.



It wasn't easy. My first taker was a young child... who was with parents. The parents ignored me, but the child's curiosity got the best of him, and he reached out towards me with his hand as his parents dragged him away. I gave him a card.

The second took a several minutes longer, and it was one of those people that were taking all the cards (as most people only take the first card they see). I saw her approaching as did all the other card distributors, and we overloaded her hands with cards. During the tiem I was there, there were about 3-4 people who took everyone's cards like her.

However, most of the time was spent waiting, hoping to catch some interest...



I tried to look for patterns in demographics to see who was more likely to take from me. Is it the old? The young? Men? Women?




It was extremely hard to tell. I easily approached at least 75-100 people per card I managed to hand out.

Different people would act differently as well. Most people just walked past you without reacting. Some would look at your card, and then look away. A few would put up their hands, as if sayig "no thanks." Only one lady politely refused me with words. Very few looked genuinely annoyed with all the card distribution activity.

The passerbys were also difficult to handle because they tend to come in clumps (as opposed to a steady stream) due to the traffic lights. As a result, every clump would attract all the card distributors' attention, and it was difficult to "stand out" amongst the other distributors. It was important to get there first, but of course, not to be pushy about it. It is notable too that people in groups walking together were harder to pass cards to, but not impossible.

I tried different techniques as well. At first I just tried to smile and look nice. I maintained good eye contact, but not overly intrusive. When they came closer, I gave them a pleasant half smile, and nodded in acknowledgment if they took a card. I also tried the "double take" technique, which seemed to work slightly better - I would flash the cards at them quickly, and if they showed interested, I would show the cards a second time for them to take. Finally, I tried a two handed card presentation technique (like how you would hand gifts to someone using traditional Asian etiquette) to each passerby, though this technique also had limited success.



The Anhui people watched with surprise and amusement at my efforts. They cheered me on as I promised to give away all my cards before I left. Some were leaning back against the wall or the lamp post, taking a break and watching me work instead, finally having a chance to enjoy a sunny, if not unusual, afternoon. However, others were more interesting in their treatment of me. One guy tried to sell me some watches. I tried to give him a business card. We each failed in our respective endeavors.

After about 55 minutes, I had finally finished giving out all ~10 or so of my cards. It was definitely not easy, and I was fortunate to have met the 3-4 people who took a card from everyone. I waved bye to the Anhui folks, hopped in a cab, and hurried to the boat.

Rushing in, I walked quickly towards the counter just to check on the status of the boat. Most of the passengers, however, thought I was getting on the boat, and thru so a sort of mob mentality developed, with many passengers seated at the waiting area getting up and following me to the counter. However, the boat was not yet ready, and we ended up waiting there for another good 10 minutes. Few people sat back down, apparently not wanting to give up their spot in the line.



And so I floated back to Jinmen, then flew to Taipei, back to familiar territory.

Card distribution does not seem to be my calling, though inspiring mob behavior might be.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Cos,rm Tsmfp,mrdd (Xiamen Randomness)

Afterward the trip to Nanputuo Temple, I headed back to my hotel, where I met a couple of my roommates, two university students studying various arts (their interests lay in script-writing, directing, design, and photography) from Shanghai visiting. We decided to tour Gulangyu together the next day.

Entrance to one of the exhibits on Gulangyu:



Gulangyu:



European architecture on the island:



View of Xiamen from Gulangyu:



Lianwu fruit (aka wax apple) - I've only seen them in Taiwan before. They have a very interesting and delightful texture: crispy on the outside, and fuzzy like cotton on the inside. These were minature versions of the ones found in Taiwan:



We also visited an aviary on the island:



They had shows with the birds every 1-2 hours in the afternoon:



The birds can dance, guess answers to math problems, and lift weights, as shown below:



One of the tricks involves the birds literally taking money from the spectators!



Another park on Gulangyu:





Gulangyu Beach:







Museum by the beach:



My roommates and I:



After that, I left Gulangyu and headed towards the other pier to catch the boat back to Jinmen. Some final peculiarities on Xiamen:

Snacks are a pleasant surprise. Unlike airlines in the US, instead of serving peanuts, Xiamen Airlines served dried kiwis on the plane:



While on a Xiamen bus, the bus driver stopped to get gas with all the passengers still aboard. Maybe I haven't ridden the bus enough in the US, but I can't recall that ever happening before:


Nanputuo Temple

After the death-defying ride back from the Tulou, the Taiwanese mother suggested I go visit Naputuo Temple (南普陀寺), where I can see the sunset. And so I hopped in a cab from the pier at Gulangyu, and arrived at Nanputuo Temple a few minutes later.

Temple Entrance:



Inside the temple:







As I climbed up the hill the temple was situated on, I saw a boy working on making flowers out of these stalks.



He was selling them for 5 RMB each. Someone asked him how he figured out how to make them, and he boasted proudly that he just looked it up on the Internet! So ingenious, so industrious! It made perfect sense, but sometimes we forget how the Internet can effect society at every level.

I finally arrived at the top, where there indeed was a beautiful sunset:





Monday, October 20, 2008

Getting Ripped Off in Xiamen

So I arrived back in Xiamen by boat from Jinmen to spend a day sightseeing.



I was mainly coming to see Gulangyu (鼓浪嶼), a small island close to Xiamen also known as Piano Island, where I had booked a room at the hostel there. Once off the boat, I was greeted by travel agents at Xiamen Port.



They arranged for a taxi to take me to my Gulangyu for 50 RMB, which I did not try to bargain because I was a bit tired at that point. On the way, the taxi driver actually was more like another travel agent sales rep. He tried to sell me on a tour of Gulangyu for 37 RMB, which I was interested because it seemed relatively inexpensive, and I have yet to try touring with a travel agency (a fellow lone traveler I had met in Hangzhou had done so on occasions and had enjoyable experiences). He asked me how long I was staying, and when I told him I was planning on leaving tomorrow, he reminded me of the fact that the famous Fujian Tulou (福建土樓), a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was not too far away, and probably worth a visit. However, when asked, he said the Tulou tour is around 320 RMB, far more than the Gulangyu tour. But since the site was a few hours away by car, it seemed relatively less accessible... it's possible it is worth the price. Anyhow, as the driver dropped me off, he gave me his business card, asking me to call if I was interested.

As I got out of his car, I realized I had no idea where I was. Wasn't he supposed to take me to Gulangyu, but Gulangyu was an island. I soon discovered that the only way there is via a boat, and he had dropped me off at the pier. I would have to find the hotel on the island myself once across I made it across.

After making it across to the island, I found my hostel, which wasn't as difficult as I thought. After checking in, I checked with the front desk on how much they charged for tours to Tulou - 350 RMB. Having one point of reference, I decided to call up the driver and see if I could negotiate lower. After a couple discussions, I managed to drop the price from 320 RMB to 300 RMB, then to 280 RMB. We would meet the next day at the hotel across from the pier that he dropped me off at around 8am.

And so the next day, I arrived at the hotel on time, getting picked up by a van with about 10 other travelers. The drive was slightly over two hours, and though I tried to sleep, it was close to impossible when I realized our crazy driver didn't mind risking death if it meant we could arrive half an hour sooner:



He passed pretty much every single car we managed to see in front of us, often swerving right in front of incoming traffic! He even passed the police car in front of us who was also driving at a ridiculous speed and passing cars himself:



Yup, another near death experience... Anyhow, we finally got to where the Tulou UNESCO Heritage Site was, happy to be able to exit the car alive. The site is situated in a quiet, peaceful looking village.



Our group got a guide to take our group around. She wasn't very good, and was less than enthusiastic, but she did explain that tulous are round, residential structures built a couple hundred years ago. Extended families would live in them, and as the family grew, the tulou could be expanded outward so that the new families can live in the same building. The outer wall of the tulou is especially thick to protect the residents from potential bandits.



A couple more shots of the tulous:





We got to go inside a couple of them, where locals were hawking mostly touristy goods, though there were some interesting local specialties such as the baked persimmons. A lady was also selling homemade ai-yu drink (愛玉), which was surprising since I had never seen them really sold outside of Taiwan. After I tasted it, I advised her to try adding some lemon to it to accentuate the flavor, as the Taiwanese do.

Speaking of the Taiwanese, I met a couple of them on the trip as well - a mother and son touring together. They were fairly well traveled, and advised me to avoid tour groups to well-connected places like the cities, though they may be helpful in some cases, such as in visiting more remote locations.

Anyhow, the tour went on for a few hours, and then we headed to lunch. At lunch, a topic of conversation came up about how much we each paid for the trip. I soon realized that the majority of those in the tour group, all mainlander locals, only paid a fraction of my fare - 29 RMB! When she asked how much I paid, the mother from Taiwan spoke up for me, and said that we paid for a package, and it was not easy to separate out the costs for separate tours.

After lunch, the driver asked me to pay up. Still feeling rather slighted, I gave him the 280 RMB I had negotiated with the driver from the other day. After he counted the money, he asked for 20 RMB more - apparently he thought we had agreed to 300. I told him that we had negotiated 280 in the end, and also that it shouldn't matter that much anyways since he is ripping me off by charging me 10x the price of everyone else. Looking a little red-faced, he smiled guiltily and backed off.

We headed back after lunch, and after two dangerous hours weaving thru traffic, we were in Xiamen. 280 RMB down the drain, all for risking my life in the car for 4 hours, and going on a mediocre tour for 3 hours. I suppose the only thing the 280 RMB was worth was this lesson about getting ripped off. After all, the only true way to learn about getting ripped off is to get firsthand experience of it. Just think of it as an investment, a learning experience. Don't get mad, just talk to people, figure out what happened, and learn from it. Besides, you can't really learn anything by trying to avoid any spending, and you'll have to spend money in China eventually. Next time I'll know better.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Tunnels in Jinmen

So as mentioned, yesterday I ended up getting a ride from PRC to ROC by boat via the Xiamen to Jinmen route. Jinmen, at it's closest point, is only 3km from the mainland, and it has been under martial law until recent years. In fact, back in the 70s, forces from either side of the strait would build up on Jinmen and Xiamen, and they would fire artillery shells at each other every other day. At first, they were deadly shells, but after awhile, the shells were filled with propaganda (either Communist or Democratic), and designed to release propaganda instead of inflicting maximum damage. On the boat ride, you can see there are still remnants of that era on the signs:




It reads: 三民主義統一中國 (The Three Principles of the People Unify China).

On Jinmen, I stayed in the largest city of Jincheng:



Even though Jinmen is much closer to mainland China than the main island of Taiwan, it has that familiarity of Taiwan - the small shops, the motorbikes, the Taiwanese accent. It just still feels different from China. There's still just such a gap.

I spent the night in Jinmen. Hostel prices are a bit higher here, as it cost me about 1000 NT (~$30 USD) for a night, though the room was much nicer than most places in China:



The next day, I got up and wandered aimlessly around Jincheng for the morning. I wanted to find some potstickers (鍋貼) for lunch, since apparently this is where my father learned to make pot stickers with eggs when he was in the army. I found a shop with potstickers:



But there were no eggs. They tasted alright, but I found other interesting things hanging on the wall:



I'm not quite sure what that is. Jinmen is also famous for its knives, which is made from high quality scrap metal made from artillery shells:


Finally, I went to visit one set of underground tunnels (坑道) in Jinmen. Jinmen is known for these paths, as the army had prepared plenty of places for soldiers and civillians to hide in in case of a communist invasion. This is the tunnel entrance:



This is the route map:



One of the tunnels:

In the afternoon, I grabbed a taxi to go to the dock to head back over to Xiamen to take a look. In the taxi, I talked with the driver, who spoke about how Jinmen is opening up even more just in thes past few months. It used to be you needed a special residence permit called a JinMa Zheng to be able to use the boats to Xiamen - now everyone can ride it. However, that hasn't translated into increased business for the taxis, as most of the visitors arrive with tour groups, and have pre-arranged transportation.

And so I thanked my driver for the ride, then passed through customs to hop onto the boat. At the customs checkpoint, the lady recognized me from yesterday. "Didn't you just pass by here?" she asked. "I sure did," I responded, "and will be back again soon enough!"