And I knew about Hangzhou, had high expectations. There is a well-known saying in China, "In Heaven there is Paradise, on Earth there is Hangzhou (and Suzhou)." Everyone I had met who had been in Hangzhou highly recommended it, and recommended staying for at least a week, if not a month.
Hangzhou is the capital of Zhejiang Province, and in its own right a large and thriving city, not a stand-alone tourist resort like Sanya (三亞), nor a nature reserve like Jiuzhaigou (九寨溝). It's hard to believe many real people actually live here, work here, and get to enjoy life here everyday.
I arrived in Hangzhou from Shanghai by train towards the evening. The hundred minute train ride was comfortable, and I managed to befriend the passengers sitting around me, all from Hangzhou:
They gave me suggestions on places to go visit, and we played cards, some Mainland version of the Taiwanese game "Big 2." The time passed quickly, and in no time we reached the train station.
Unlike most other train stations in China, for example:
Beijing (北京):
Shanghai (上海):
and Wuxi (無錫):
Hangzhou's was nice and relaxed:
The atmosphere was laid back, and there weren't people haggling you to buy Hangzhou maps or trying to sell small, catchy toys. In fact, in general, there weren't too many people around hanging out at the train station.
It was around 8pm when I arrived, and the first thing I tried to do is find the Y2 bus, which would take me to the hostel. The hostel was on the southern shore of West Lake, also known as Xihu (西湖), near the Long Bridge (長橋) bus stop, which was also near Leifeng Pagoda (雷鋒塔), one iconic landmark around Xihu and the setting for one of the most famous love stories in Chinese tradition. Unfortunately, apparently bus drivers also know how to enjoy life in Hangzhou, and according to the bus schedule, Y2 had ran its last route hours ago. As a result, I had to grab a taxi to the hostel instead.
The West Lake Youth Hostel was a clean, low-key place with adequate furnishings. I booked a bed in one of the 4-bed dorm rooms for 50 RMB for 3 nights. My roommates were not back yet, and so I decided to go out for a run by myself to explore Xihu. The night was cool but not cold, and as I stepped out to the main road, I realized I didn't have a clue which direction West Lake was in. Certainly I was close, but not close enough to see it in the darkness. I picked a direction, turned to my left, and ran along the well-lit sidewalk. The air was fresh for once! My lungs rejoiced and I ran hard, taking in the natural surroundings, relishing in the slight inclines and declines of the path.
Unfortunately, 25 minutes later, although having enjoyed myself thoroughly, I found myself no closer to Xihu. I was running on Hupao Lu (虎跑路), which roughly translates to "Tiger Running Road", and it seemed to stretch on and on, which made sense, since I imagine tigers probably could run farther than I could. I decided to turn back, and spent another 20+ minutes to get back, running slightly faster than the first leg. I passed by the hostel, but decided to keep going. After all, I wasn't completely exhausted yet (though somewhat tired), and I hadn't seen very much yet.
About one block over was the Long Bridge bus stop, and there was a map. Apparently just ahead, a turn to the left would get me a view of Xihu. I followed the path, breathlessly, not only from the running, but from my growing anticipation which was overtaking me. The path turned from the concrete sidewalk into an exquisite small stone-laid path. I slowed my pace, and suddenly I was there. As the scene unfolded, I couldn't help but stare in amazement (the picture still doesn't quite do the scene justice):
I had finally arrived. Peering beyond the fog and mist was Long Bridge, with its lights reflecting off the waters, the scene warming my heart in the cooling night. It was silent except for the soft whispers of nature. I had not expected this, not this magical, not this romantic, even though perhaps I should have. It was as if I had ran blindly into the wilderness and discovered Paradise.
And so although Xihu was right there, not too far from the hostel, all the extra hard work running around and looking for the lake for about an hour made the scene so much more worthwhile and refreshing. The journey makes the destination all the sweeter.
I walked around, and admired every little thing. I marveled at the elegant moon bridge as I crossed, savoring its miniature steps. The bridge was barely above the water level, which was fairly still, though the gentle wind would cause small ripples across the reflections of the lights.
And it was not just the bridge either. Going further, there was wonderful traditional architecture made with the same elegance everywhere, every bridge, every pavillion, every building. The lanes of willow trees, the gardens, the lovely stone-laid paths... Every piece was just so nice. And it blew my mind that it must be like that all the way around the lake, all 15 km! This was beauty beyond my expectations, even though I had developed high expectations already through seeing pictures, talking with friends who have visited, etc. It was as if I stumbled upon an alien world where this level of beauty was commonplace and standard issue, not gimicky tourist attractions, just part of daily life. I couldn't take it anymore. I rushed back to the hostel to get my camera. The night attendant at the front desk smiled knowingly as I blew past her on the way to my room and back.
And so I ran all the way back to the Long Bridge area, took some pictures, and then continued on. Like I said before, it kept going, and going, my heart raced as I desired to see more and more. I ran with exhilaration, and soon I was running alongside the lake between two lanes of willow trees (柳树). The road was lit pretty brightly, a shining path in the middle of darkness. Since no one was around, I ran tried to run as fast as I could... and took pleasure in propelling myself high into the air while running, trying to touch the willow leaves like a little kid or perhaps like Super Mario. Eventually, I slowed and stopped, once again enjoying the refreshing stillness. There were a few couples/lovers sitting on benches by the lake, quietly enjoying their time together. In the distance, the song of a solitary flute rang out, playing a melancholy tune. It was joined by another. I followed the sound, and found a couple sitting together on a bench. The boy was teaching the girl how to play the flute.
Long Bridge, once again:
Views from afar:
...every pavillion, every building...
The lanes of willow trees...
"In Heaven there is Paradise, on Earth there is Hangzhou." A fairly accurate assessment indeed.
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My hometown! - Yi
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