Begging in Suzhou

As mentioned earlier, I got to Suzhou quite late in the day, and had no more than an hour or so of sunlight left. The sun sets at around 6pm, which I find remarkably early, though maybe I just haven't gotten used to the idea that it's already mid-fall. Or maybe it has something to do with China's wacky timezones - basically, the whole country is under a single timezone, so who knows what the times would actually be if they had split it out geographically.

While waiting to meet up with my friend at the bus stop, I came across this fellow sitting on the sidewalk:


The writing, upon close examination:


Basically, it translates to, "Very Hungry. Kind people, please buy me a boxed lunch. Thanks."

I had nothing to do, and had actually thought about talking to beggars for sometime to understand them better. This guy also seemed relatively clean and healthy, so I was puzzled as to why he didn't just go work for his food like everyone else his age. I was hoping he would make for good, perhaps even meaningful conversation.

And so I decided to go across the street to buy a boxed meal. For 7 RMB, I got a Black Peppered Beef Fried Rice (黑胡椒牛肉炒飯) to go. I walked across the street, and asked him if he was hungry. He made no reaction. I placed the bag carrying the boxed meal next to him, but he still did not move. I was puzzled; did he not hear me? Isn't this what he wanted? Isn't he surprised that somebody actually got him something to eat? Why wouldn't he thank me, or at least acknowledge me? I decided to give him some distance - it was clearly somewhat awkward. A took several steps away, and watched him for a minute or two between the rest of the walking crowd. He did not move at all. Disgusted, I walked away... but then decided to circle back from the other direction. By the time I had reached his position again, he was gone - I could see him walking in the distance with the plastic lunch sack. So much for gratitude. At the same time, he had left for me a unique opportunity...

With nothing to do but wait for my friend, I decided to do just that. And so I waited... at the very spot the fellow had sat at. At first I was embarrassed - just about everybody that passed read the chalk writing by my feet, and looked at me funny, especially as I stood around and txted my friend. However, after awhile, I got more comfortable, and sat down on the sidewalk, in the very position my ungrateful predecessor did. Many people looked at the writing, then looked at me with pity. I couldn't help but flash a smug smile. When they seem perplexed, I laughed out loud. I'm sure they had never seen such a happy person starving!

Many gawkers had passed by, but for the first several minutes nobody offered anything at all. There was a girl standing several feet away on the sidewalk, who seemed either to be waiting for someone, or perhaps wanted to help me but was too shy to talk to me. We made eye contact a few times. I smiled at her too, just like the rest, but she did not budge from her spot. A few moments later, she disappeared.

I got out my Lonely Planet book and started reading it. The text was in English, a highly prized language that Chinese people tend to dole out plenty of money to learn, which made the scene all the more bizarre. At one point a Caucasian guy was walking extremely fast along the sidewalk in my direction. We made eye contact and I smiled. He said, "Ni hao," in Mandarin Chinese. I replied back in English, "Hey man, how's it going?" He made no reply and kept walking - most likely he was in a hurry or he just couldn't hear with his headphones on.

After about 10-15 minutes, there was a young couple walked past me. I looked up and the girl eyed me cautiously. I smiled gently, and she slowed and turned around. Walking towards me, still with a hand clasped with her boyfriend's, she tentatively asked me in Chinese, "Sir, where are you from?"

"I am from USA," I replied back. She recoiled in shock. She could not have imagined someone from the richest of nations begging on the streets of China! I continued, "The US is bankrupt and our economy is in shambles, so that is why I am here."

She looked at me with great pity. "Why don't you take 5 RMB then?" She pulled a small bill out of her purse.

The gig was up - there was no way I was taking money. I smiled, and explained to her that I did not actually write the chalk writing - I was the "kind person" who helped out the one who was here before. I just happened to be sitting here waiting for a friend, and really am not starving. She smiled in relief and and her boyfriend laughed, deeply amused. They walked off into the distance, the only ones to stop by and offer help during my short, tacit begging career. And I enjoyed the experience so much that I forgot to ask them why they had decided to stop in the first place.

A few minutes later, my friend arrived, and called me to let me know. I had her take a picture of me, which was difficult due to the high foot and bike traffic as well as the fact she was so embarrassed to be associated with me sitting by the chalk writing (loss of face and everything):



Fun times. I guess I didn't get to see much of Suzhou, but I think they should seriously consider making that section of the sidewalk into a tourist attraction...